Directa Amistad a les jorasses

El verano se acerca y mi mente y alma buscan nuevos objetivos con que satisfacer su sed de aventura, y entre muchas posibilidades me passo por la cabeza la directa amistad a les jorases. El por qué no lo se, puede ser por que o un dia la vi en un libro de reseñas i ya me quedé impregnado de ella para siempre, por el sitio donde se encuentra o por su aperturista, quien sabe.

Si alguin tiene alguna información sobre su estado actual o sabe si alguien la escalado hace poco me haria un favor ya que m'he han llegado informaciones un poco borrosas de que una parte de la ruta fué a parar al pié de la jorasas artas de estar luchando contra al gravedad.

Grácias por aticipado. lluc

aupa Lluc. que yo sepa la última ascensión es del invierno del 2006 por stephane benoist, y compañía. En 2004, febreo mark ryle y robert steiner la hicieron hasta 100m de cima (rescate helicoptero por congelaciones). Previamente tras la 1ª de audoubet, signeur y cia, la segunda en 1977, septiembre en 5 dias por roger baxter-jones y nick colton, tercera por remy escoffier, michel fauquet, dede rhem y fred vimal, y cuarta/quinta ascensiones en 1998 por escaladores rusos. La ruta es una de las más difíciles del macizo mt blanc, siendo para algunos de gran calidad (benoist) o no recomendable, "una escombrera", ryle-steiner. Parece que otoño-invierno es cuando se han hecho la mayoría de los ascensos. Si quieres más info (no tengo croquis) o una fotocopia de louis audoubert de una separata de la primera ascensión, ponte en contacto: agustincastiela@yahoo.es

Salud y suerte!!

relato de paul robach en alpinist del ascenso 2006:
GRANDES JORASSES

Posted on: July 1, 2006
Printer Friendly Version
Digg it Subscribe To Alpinist
Email This Article

Yannick Seigneur, Michel Feuillarade, Marc Galy and Louis Audoubert made the first ascent of this route (in winter!), in nineteen days. It has been repeated at least three times: by an English team in September 1977; a French team in July 1989; and a Russian team in July 1999. We were aware of several winter attempts, one almost completed three or four years ago (the climbers were rescued—because of frostbite—not far under the top).

Patrice Glairon-Rappaz, Stephane Benoist and I climbed the Directe de l'Amitie ("Friendship Direct") in six days, from January 31 to February 5, with five bivies. The weather conditions were very good, except the last twenty-four hours (clear weather, but with a strong north wind). Apart from the lower ramp (mixed climbing), the route is mostly rock climbing. The conditions were so-so: snow covered most of the cracks and edges. We did a lot of aid climbing and some free climbing. The itinerary is obvious, because it truly follows the line of weakness. Some sections have good rock; others are loose. We believe that the crux pitch is still A3, as described in the original topo. Several pitches present A2 sections (often harder than the topo's V A1). The steepness and exposure impressed all of us. Stephane and Patrice (who have climbed several difficult north face routes in winter) consider this route to be the most serious one they have ever climbed in the Alps. Any retreat becomes highly problematic in the upper half. We found almost no gear, no fixed lines—and only one bivy where it is possible to sleep lying down. For the other four bivies, we slept sitting, with our feet in a hammock. We used only a few pitons, but a lot of Aliens and Camalots (including large sizes) and also some nuts.

We descended the south side of Grandes Jorasses (4208m) in good weather, but in deep and exhausting snow. We are not aware of any previous winter ascent before ours (apart from the first ascent), but who knows?

advertisement

Paul Robach, Chamonix, France